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I read a bunch of people on here had the same problem & is probably the sensor for the idiot light.

FIrst off the car is mint shape 90,800km…..oil was just changed less than 2,000km ago in dec. Mobil 1, Wix Filter I change every 5,000km/ or 3000 miles.

Driving in traffic tonight and the light came on…….pulled over checked on level ground oil is A ok. Went to a friend house &l oil light flickered on an off for the 5 min on the way to friends house. Left friends house few hours later 10 min drive home oil light never blinked once was fine.

Car temperature was ok…..transmission level was ok…..Engine oil level was ok.

So i figured the sensor is screwed up.

As other people say the car is ok on oil but the sensor flickers.

IF I DO NOT GET THE LIGHT FIXED WILL THIS CAUSE A PROBLEM………EVEN THO THE OIL LEVEL IS FULL?

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my engine oil is old & it needs a change so i wanted to do it myself, clean out the old oil then put in new oil but i dont know how to go about it. i dnt want to take it to the garage because i want to learn it myself n save money, if any1 can help n knows any websites which tell you how to do it or if you know how to, can you please help me thanks n much appreciated

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After how many kilometers should i change my engine oil, gear oil ?

How to check the lubricating substance (LUBRICANT) in oil ? for oil check ……. if theres lubricant then oil is fine & if it doesnt then oil needs to be changed ?

SHould i look the color of the oil too ?

thanks

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I am thinking of switching to Motorcraft full synthetic oil.

We have an 2010 Towncar that is driven about 9K a year
We also have a 07 MKZ that is driven (mostly highway) about 12-14K per year.

I live in the desert southwest where the temperature is often 100 degrees. I’ve been told & believe that ambient temperature doesn’t matter as much because the operating temperature of the engine is near 190 degrees anyway.

The service adviser told me to wait until the towncar tells me it needs an oil change. I think that’s too long. I’m thinking more along the lines of 5 months or 5K for that car.

The MKZ the service adviser said every 6 months 6K. I’m also thinking about 5 months 5K.

When I break down the cost it’s only a little more to change it more often & still cheaper then semi synthetic that "claims" 3 months 3K.

To me it’s cheap insurance to do it that way as they say "it’s the life blood of your engine"

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that discount services/labor for 3 services (one will be oil change) so I can have 2 more services done. I am ignorant of costs & necessity of service so don’t want to make bad choice or be taken advantage of (perhaps I’d do better going somewhere that doesn’t have "coupons"???

Car has 115k miles. Owned since 30k (fleet car previously). I’ve only changed oil/battery & had transmission serviced, belt tension-er replaced, and of course tires. No other service.

So, what I THINK I need would be brake job, because they’re making a little noise (for 2nd time in 6 months…made a little noise for few days then stopped, and started again week or so ago…not grinding sounds, just little squeak). Coupon is off complete brake job. Don’t know what average cost is for complete brake job though. With and without rotators would be different..would I probably need rotators all the way around???

Also have coupon for off Cooling System Flush,so thought that may be good 3rd choice? But again, don’t know for sure or what average cost would be for this?

The Free Check Engine Light Scan appeals because my Check Engine light comes on sometimes but it appears to be related to fuel cap. If I blow out the fumes in cap and where gas nozzle goes, it goes off after a few hours or so…so maybe it would be a waste compared to Cooling System Flush?

The other coupon choices are: Free Fuel Injection Service (Chemicals additional), A/C Performance Service (Freon & Dye Additional), Radiator Drain & Re-Fill (Coolant additional), Last but not least coupon is for Half Off of Wheel Alignment (up to ).

I welcome guidance from a knowledgeable person as to how best to use my limited $ and still do what my car needs!
Blessings,
Becky :-)
Mark F., I explained in great detail WHY I’m asking and why simply going by their rates isn’t ideal. Either you didn’t bother to read and understand my questions or you’re just being a jerk. I am genuinely seeking help to make this decision! Coupons aren’t always a good deal!!

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what is the safest amount of miles you can go without changing it? what kind of oil do u reccommend. its winter time here so i dont know if that matters for thinness of the oil. Please help. I am 17. its a 4.2 L6 & Takes 7 quarts of oil. I heard some one say Mobil 1??? but im not sure. Thank You.

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I need warranty, pricing quotes, and prices. This is in US Florida

Oil change
Changing out an Alternator
Replacing the transmission
A regular tune-up
Replacing a starter
Installation of an after-market satellite radio system
Window tint
4 new tires (price must include mounting, balancing & price of the tire)
Full car detail (wash, wax and interior)
Like give me 2 car companies that do this

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Did I get royally screwed by this mechanic?

Here’s the bill:

PREM SEMI MET PADS =
DISC BRAKE ROTOR =
COMPLETE FRONT DISC LABOR = 0
PREMIUM SHOES =
REAR BRAKE DRUM & SHOE LABOR = 0
COMBINATION KIT =
INSTALLED REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS =
WHEEL CYLINER =
BLEED & FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM =
DISPOSAL FEE =

TOTAL = ,000
(plus an oil change and a "free serpentine belt replacement" because it didn’t solve the squeeking sound.)

I went in asking for a 100,000 mile tune up and got a call saying that the rear brakes were leaking and "needed a lot of work." I feel like I got royally screwed by this mechanic and am debating whether to go back to this guy. He has really good reviews on Yelp and everyone seems to love him, but I have my doubts. Is this bill ridiculous or is pretty sane?!

Thanks in advance!!
FORD TAURUS
2006
101,000

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I own a 2003 Lexus ES300 with 119,000 miles on it. I purchased the car with 83,400 miles on it and have only been using synthetic motor oil (my car takes 5W-30). I usually go 6,000 miles (sometimes 8,000) between oil changes. I want to know approximately how many miles is recommended to travel between changing my oil? I always use Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil with a mobil 1 high performance oil filter. (However, this cycle I am running Castrol Syntec full synthetic motor oil with K&N High Performance Gold Oil Filter). How many miles between services? Please give input

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I recently took my car (99 cougar) to a Tire & Lube place for an oil change. I was upset when I called back 2 hours later only to have them tell me they hadn’t done anything to my car because they COULDN’T GET MY DIPSTICK OUT???? It does appear to be stuck in some manor but where do you turn when the professionals can’t get it unstuck????


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    I was thinking if anyone has any experience with Wal-Mart’s brand of motor oil called "Super Tech". Its cheap & I was thinking of using it for my car for the next oil change.

    I usually use Mobil 5W30 but the price difference is huge compared to the ‘Super Tech’ brand. Any comments?. Thank you.


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      Every place i have EVER worked honored coupons if they were misprinted. Wel I got a coupon for a really cheap oil change out of a coupon book that I paid 20 dollars for. The coupon was for 7.90. I went in & they said no, they’d give it to me for 17.90. They REFUSED to honor the coupon. Do they have to honor it or do I just get screwed? (I live in Oklahoma.. if that makes a difference)


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        i have recently started to use this soap on my head instead of shampoo with some regular conditioner.
        It doesn’t make my hair look too great but it’s not all that bad either. i figure the simpler & more natural you go nowadays, the better…so ive started making changes like tea tree oil for deodorant & soap for shampoo & stuff like that when ive got nowhere special to go…ya kno..haha

        When i told my aunt about this she told me to do some research on it cause soap causes dandruff on your head…she saidin the olden days (lol) when she used soap it dd for her & many others? i also read some of the reviews on this soap & it says that it makes people’s skin really dry sometimes so i’m thinking she may be right it may also dry out the scalp. i’m not really a big fan of dry scalps since they lead to dandruff, but of course i can add some hemp oil of olive oil or something to it as necessary (any recommendations for good oils that don’t make hair greasy would be LOVELY!!! :) ) ) lol if that would help at all….

        Anyways, i just wanna know does anyone have experience with this? Washing your hair with soap, using tea tree as deoderant, oil as lotion, etc..(Any other suggestions!!!??)

        Thankkks :) )

        Much Love


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          Yeah, I know, the prices….but I mean, have you ever felt that they have seriously messed up and damaged, or even sabotaged, your car? If so, what happened & what did you do about it? This didn’t happen to me, but I do know that they make things up to try and do a hard sell for stuff you don’t need, so I always kind of wonder what else they would stoop to.
          I already know that I shouldn’t take my car there. So I don’t need that advice. Just want to know other people’s stories. Thanks!


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            I work at a quick lube & oil change shop in north seattle. I have been to several stores that sell work and protective gloves and am not sure if any of their gloves will be able to stand up to the massive amount of oil that would they would soak in every day. I have tried Atlas Thermal gloves that I enjoy very much for other projects and jobs, however they absorb much of the dirty used oil and after a day of changing oil they begin to warp and basicly go bad. I’m pretty sure that any glove i get will have engough grip for my application, what I am concerned about is their ability to not deteriorate after being soaked in used motor oil and other automotive fluids, and that they not absorb the oil, so myhands may be protected from contacting oil. I also must be able to spin drain plugs with my fingers so the grip on the insides of the fingers cannot grip each other like some rubber gloves.

            currently we have disposible nitral gloves that do alright however I would also like the advantages of keeping me warm on cold days, extra grip and comfort.

            anyway, what are some brands or models of gloves that I should look for that would be appropriate and long lasting, for my application.


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