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Put the drain plug back in after draining the oil. Learn how to reinstall the drain plug on your oil pan, in this free video.Expert: Dean Donnel Bio: Dean Donnell has always been interested in cars. He started working on cars in high school. Dean quickly learned he enjoyed taking things apart and he was indeed mechanically inclined. Filmmaker: Grady Johnson
This is a how to video on how to change a fuel pressure regulator on a 96 LT1 Corvette. This is a similar process for almost all cars. This will be identical to all LT1s and LT4s. This will take 30min max and you will need: -small flat head screw driver -5/16 ratchet or wrench (for battery terminal) -various sized star torx wrenches Steps: -spray the torx bolts with “liquid wrench” or some other nut remover to make it easier to remove the bolts. -start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. -relieve fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or carefully push a screw driver in the fuel pressure valve. – Unscrew and remove the torx bolt that holds the fuel lines down. (the fuel line that goes to the FPR should be loose now) -Unscrew the torx bolt that holds down the fuel pressure regulator (it screws into the fuel rail). -Have a plastic container under the FPR so that excess fuel can fall into it and not on your engine. -Remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail -Unclip the fuel line from the FPR and now it should be completely removed -Add motor oil to the o-rings that are on the FPR -Attach the new FPR to the fuel rail first -Attach the FPR to the fuel line and reset the clip – Screw down the fuel line torx bolt -make sure you let the area air out so there are no fumes then attach the negative battery terminal -start the engine and check for leaks You are done! a 0 Job done for This info is for use at your own risk. This is how I fixed my FPR…
How to do-it-yourself instructional on performing an oil and filter change. Today on Repairs101 I’d like to share with you some tips on performing your own oil changes. So have a look at my other video “Choosing Engine Oil” to help you determine exactly what kind of oil you want to put in your engine. So you can get your filter from your dealership, you can get it at a lot of different kinds of automotive supply stores and general department stores have them — even Wal-Mart carries them. And of course if you don’t know what the number is — if you can’t read it say on the filter that’s on your vehicle right now — if you don’t have access to the manuals — you get some information at the store. There’s generally going to be — at the very least — there’s going to be some flip-books attached to the shelving somehow where the filters are being sold, and in the best case scenario they’ll have a parts person there to help you out. They’ll just ask you a few basic questions about your car: what’s the make, the model, the year and the engine size and they’ll be able to help you out right away, get you the right filter right away. Perhaps have a look at one of my other videos “Safe Jacking Procedures” to give you some ideas on exactly how to lift your vehicle carefully and safely and ensure that it’s safe before you get to work on it. So if you don’t have the time or the equipment to actually lift the car up you can try this “curb-hopping” technique — but if you do “curb …
**Always follow the instructions in your repair manual when doing repair or maintenance work on a motorcycle. Manuals can be found at the dealer and online.** This video explains how to change the engine oil and oil filter on a 2009 Harley Davidson Softail. I replaced the used engine oil with Genuine 20W-50 Harley Davidson Motorcycle oil and the the new oil filter is OEM. Always use oil formulated for motorcycles when changing your motorcycle oil. Thanks for watching! Tools Used: -5/8″ Socket for engine oil drain plug -End Cap Oil Filter Wrench -Torque Wrench Specifications: – Engine oil drain plug should be tightened to 14-21 ft.-lbs – Engine oil filter should be turned 3/4-1 turn after the filter seats against the engine – Used Genuine Harley Davidson 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil
Smoke billowed up sides of car. Got out with child and pet. Reputable mechanic determined that wrong engine oil filter was used causing all the oil to come out. There was no oil in car when arrived in mechanics shop after tow. Est. cost to replace with new engine ,700; used engine ,700. Car is 2001 Camry with 73,000 miles. Need advice. How am I made "whole"?
I had an oil change over 1 month ago on my 2008 Mazda RX8, after i drove home smoke was comming from the engine and I was smelling burning oil. The smoke went away but 600 miles later i still smell burning oil when I have the vents on fresh air not recirculated. I took it to the garage and they didnt have much to say. I have been changing my own oil for over 20 years and this has never happened. At first I thought it would go away after the oil burned off that the mechanic must have spilled on the engine. But it isnt going away and my car only has 8,000 miles on it….Any ideas?
A while back the Walmart Lube Center stripped my oil pan and put a temporary plug in without telling me a thing about it. The next time I got my oil changed was at Super Lube- the mechanic there told me about it, took out the temp, and put in a pan saver. I have had that for like a year and just went to Tire Kingdom to get my oil changed again. They refused to do it because it’s "against their policy" to touch a car with that kind of plug. When I went back to Super Lube, I was told that the pan saver was not a "temporary fix", as the guy at Tire Kingdom said, but actually a permanent plug. He said it was just different from the threaded plug that was there before because the pan was stripped out.
Is this pan saver a real fix to save me the money of a new pan? If the pan saver does need to be replaced, can I safely take it out during an oil change and replace it with another one? I don’t want to have to pay 0 to replace the oil pan but I am scared my car is going to eventually start leaking oil.
*Update*: A mechanic that I know personally (that I trust) has told me that he can tap out my plug with a special instrument that creates new threads, thereby making the drain hole the next size up and putting in a new threaded bolt. Apparently, it is not a self-threading bolt:
they tap it out with new threads first, then install the new bolt. He says unless I do this, no one but Super Lube will ever touch my car because of liability issues. Should I do this or just leave the pansaver plug in?
**Always follow the instructions in your repair manual when doing repair or maintenance work on a motorcycle. Manuals can be found at the dealer and online.** This video shows how to change the transmission oil on a 2008 Harley Davidson Road Glide. The oil used is Harley Davidson 20W-50 Syn3 Synthetic Oil. Tools Used: – 3/8″ Allen Wrench for the Oil Fill/Dipstick Fill Cap – 5/8″ Socket for the Transmission Oil Drain Plug – Torque Wrench Specifications: – Transmission Oil Drain Plug should be tightened to 14-21 ft.-lbs – Oil Fill/Dipstick Fill Cap should be tightened to 25-75 in.-lbs – Transmission Oil capacity is 32 ounces
Should I work at an auto repair shop as a porter or work at Jiffy lube if I want to become a mechanic? I have a 2nd interview at the repair shop tomorrow and the interview at Jiffy Lube the day after. If I get both of the jobs which would help me to become a mechanic? The owner of the repair shop said I may be able to help around the shop occasionally and if I take classes he might hire within but at Jiffy Lube at least I’d get to some hands on even though it’s just oil changes, radiator flushes and tire rotations.
My mom asked if her boyfriend (who is a mechanic for Mack truck) could change the oil in her car behind our garage. She has on street parking and the road isn’t level or in good shape. We said yes. She didn’t mention the need of tools or an oil pan.
They get here and first ask would you use a jack or ramps for an oil change on that car. My husband said a jack. So the boyfriend goes over and pulls out my husbands jack and jack stands and lifts the car. Then he comes up to my husband and says he thinks it’s a 13, so my husband points to the tool box and tells him the drawers are marked. They used my husbands tools and oil pan to change the oil and her filter. Then they left leaving the tools out, the garbage in a box by the tools, and the oil pan filled with used oil.
Are we wrong in thinking that it was rude? My husband had to put all the tools away, put the garbage in the garbage cans, and take the oil to Autozone to be recycled. At the very least shouldn’t they have taken the oil to autozone and cleaned up the garbage?
I didn’t know they left it like that until they were gone and my husband isn’t the type to cause confrontation. So do I bring it up next time I talk to my mom or wait until the next time they ask and just say "Sure, but bring your own oil pan and make sure to put the garbage in the can?"
Thoughts please?
This is what happens when you give three drunk men a camera for the first time in years, and change the oil and oil filter on a Tahoe. Yelling and hilarity ensues.
I just got the oil changed in my ’98 Honda Accord. Before the oil change the mechanic pointed out that it was almost two quarts low. I don’t think I have a leak. There was no oil anywhere on the engine. There has never been any oil in my garage, where I park it every night, or in my parking space at work, where it sits at least 8 hours a day.
The mechanic said there was sludge in the engine (2003 toyota camry, oil change was 1500 miles ago, has 95,000 miles on it.). He said for diagnosis, cleaning the oil pan and strainer of sludge, evaluation of engine without taking everything else apart, a new oil change, labor, and taxes – the amount came to 0.
Am I getting hosed?
(Its at a Mobil station garage.) He says if most of the sludge drips to the bottom so they can clean it, I’d be able to take it home today.
He said Toyota sensors are really good and the fact that my check engine light didnt go on, it probably means there is little to no damage to the engine right now. He said its not the pump because the light only goes on when the engine warms up (10 mins or so). He also said the engine sounds good when it is on (no rattling or bad noise). He thinks there is no or little damage.
Is this a good/bad deal (or avg)? Do you agree with his analysis?
Just got timing belt done last week on my b5 99.0 A4 (96000 miles), it has the 2.8 30V V6. Since then, i have had an intermittent warning light show for oil pressure being low on the screen in the middle of the cluster.
My mechanic has so far changed the oil pressure switch and done a full engine flush replacing the oil with fully synthetic mobil 1 5w30 and a bigger filter. Then on my trip home after the flush and oil change the light came on once again.
The mechanic was convinced that it was due to carbon deposits within the oil, which would have hopefully been removed by the flush, and he showed me the extent of the buildup on the oil cap on top of the engine, which had a 2/3mm layer of the stuff on it.
But now we are at a loss as to what the problem could be, has anyone experienced this sort of oil pressure issue before as it is very worrying. I think (and am hoping) it may be an electrical issue as it comes on at random times, but it may be something more and i fear my engine will be in trouble!!!
So, any ideas….
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