Quality Oil Low Prices Here
The first step in changing the oil in a car is to jack the car up in the air and put blocks underneath the tires. Take out the oil drain plug when changing a car’s motor oil with help from a specialist in car restoration in this free video on car maintenance and auto repairs. Expert: Gabe Braedt Bio: Gabe Braedt currently works restoring car bodies at a local shop. Filmmaker: stephen kuykendall
I’m growing tired of my 02′ Audi after 8 years of ownership. The WRX has all wheel drive and the BMW uses rear wheel drive. The interior, fit and finish of the BMW is much better than the Subaru. The BMW is tad faster at 13.3 in the 1/4, but cost about 3K more, no biggie. The STi is a bit more to insure. I have NO plans on modding. The BMW comes with free dealer oil changes using synthetic oil for the first 50k or 4 years of ownership.
What would you buy?
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 4×2 extended cab 5.3 liter with about 192,000 miles on it. I have always babied it in regards to changing the fluids, filter, etc. and using the best fluids possible. Obviously it has very high miles but even after oil changes the "Change Engine Oil" message still appears. I have tried resetting the message (pump the brake 5 times with the key in the on position). The message flashes when I do this but it still appears after start up. I have read in the owner’s manual that this message is based off of oil burning (?) and not mileage. I don’t know what this means. How do I fix this problem? Does it mean that oil is passing the rings and burning in the cylinders?
I have a 2001 jeep wrangler. I recently had the engine replaced and it has been running fine. I got the oil changed at Jiffy Lube and haven’t driven it more than 2,500 miles since then, and it is starting to leak a rusty/brown colored liquid from the front end of the car. I noticed that the coolant is almost completely gone, which is weird because jiffy lube oil changes include adding coolant. the oil and transmission fluid levels are fine, and the temperature gauge inside hasn’t indicated any overheating. what could be wrong, and how much might your idea cost me?
I have a 2002 lincoln ls v8 with 107000 miles and its paid for although i still carry full coverage insurance. The car takes high octane gas and takes 55-65 to fill up weekly going 350 miles give or take. Maintenance also is expensive with oil changes taking 6 qts of synthetic. ive done some repairs on it coil changes brakes tires, etc. I am looking at trading for a new fiesta (not a loaded mid grade one)for the gas mileage and just to downgrade for maintenance costs with a car over 100k miles. I can afford to repair the lincoln if had to be I just dont want to. I do qualify for the ford employee discount x or z and with trade in a loan and the monthly cost of gas is comparable to just the cost of gas i pay for in the Lincoln. With the new car i would receive warranty and new car. should i trade?
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer sport. My sister drove it for 9 months without ever changing the oil and driving it 40 minutes to work and back. When I got my car back I took it in for an oil change and found out that the oil was thick, gunky, and didn’t even look like oil anymore. They changed it and the filter and engine since has ran horribly. When in park after driving it acts like its going to die, it doesn’t but it shakes and stalls like it would when a car dies.
I don’t trust Jiffy lube (which is where I went for my oil change) after this because my car runs worse than before, however they did say something about needing a full engine flush and something about oil in my coolant or something haha.
My question is: Is this something serious that needs immediate attention or would back to back oil changes somewhere OTHER than Jiffy lube help? Could this be a possible clog somewhere in the oil line? And if so, where and how would I fix that. Is that serious?
I used to work at a little lube shop in griffin, georgia. However, the owner ran the business into the ground and the company went out of business. I have experience in: oil changes, tire mounting and balancing, Transmission services, Radiator services, Brakes (disk and drum), and other various engine repairs. Just wondering if anyone knows of anything like this in or near griffin, ga.
My Nissan is running great — so great that I forgot all about its oil changes, for about two years. Walked past an auto shop tonight and thought "duh, it’s been HOW LONG??". Checked the dipstick, thick black gunk. Added some fresh oil. Will get the oil changed tomorrow. I feel terrible because I used to be meticulous about this and then suddenly got all space cadet on my poor car.
That said, I’ve been trying to figure out what else I should do to help my car recover from this abuse. I’ve been looking online and see videos of people disassembling and cleaning engines coated with thick black goo. As bad as I think it is, it probably isn’t quite that bad, since it seems to be running fine and I’m not having any smoke or other problems. Will the fresh oil mix with and soften up the old, thick oil so it will leave the engine more easily during the oil change? Would it be advisable to have a series of oil changes every month or so for while to help clean out the engine, or is that pointless? I’ve seen some discussions of adding transmission fluid for a short time and then changing the oil again as a flush. Advice, please! Thanks so much.
Decided to take my 2003 C230k coupe I-4 1.8L to a garage down the street from where I work. Was getting tired of the 0 and 0 glorified oil changes known as Service A and Service B. Anyway, I was sure to ask them if they could handle this car and they said no problem. 4 miles down the road I got a red-screen warning saying "ENGINE OIL LEVEL – REDUCE OIL LEVEL." Called the garage, they said don’t worry. The oil takes time to settle, call tomorrow if it continues. I gave it 8 hours, warmed it up and took it for a drive. There it was again. Came home, did some research. They added 7 liters (7.4 quarts) and by all accounts I have read this engine takes only 5.8 or 6 quarts. I put together a homemade siphon pump out of some household stuff, got some information on the convenient oil output valve on top of the engine and gave it a try. Worked great. I’ve taken out somewhat short of a half gallon of oil, so I would say between 1.5 and 2 quarts. I took it out for another drive and am still getting the warning, but it takes much longer for it to appear. Was taking 3-5 minutes before, close to 10+ now.
So my question is, do I keep removing oil until it’s happy or should I acknowledge there should be another problem? Never got this message before. When it’s a little low on oil it tells me to add a quart and I do. It’s always been happy.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Should I work at an auto repair shop as a porter or work at Jiffy lube if I want to become a mechanic? I have a 2nd interview at the repair shop tomorrow and the interview at Jiffy Lube the day after. If I get both of the jobs which would help me to become a mechanic? The owner of the repair shop said I may be able to help around the shop occasionally and if I take classes he might hire within but at Jiffy Lube at least I’d get to some hands on even though it’s just oil changes, radiator flushes and tire rotations.
I do oil changes out of my home garage, and there are times when I’m not sure what the recommended oil capacity (in quarts) and viscosity (5w-30, 10w-30, etc.) is for a certain car. Are there any websites that would easily give oil information for a large amount of vehicles?
I usually take my Ford Ranger to Jiffy Lube for oil changes, but I plan to change that after my visit there yesterday. I’ve got 250,000 miles on my 1995 auto Ranger and the only things I’ve ever had done to it as far as preventative maintenance goes are oil changes every 3,000 miles, new air filter whenever it gets dirty enough and I had a new fuel filter installed around 200,000 miles. That’s it. I’ve never had the radiator flushed or transmission serviced/flushed.
I keep an eye on my fluid levels (radiator fluid, brake fluid, tranny fluid and oil level between oil changes). I’ve never had to add anything other than some radiator fluid maybe once a year so I never mess with anything. Now back to why I’m never going to Jiffy Lube again. I just had both bulbs replaced in the front headlights when I had it inspected a few months ago. I took the Ranger to Jiffy Lube yesterday and like I always do I stood outside near my truck to make sure they weren’t screwing me over.
As soon as they pulled my truck up onto the ramp both front headlights started flashing and the right light died out so they wanted to know if I wanted them to install a new light and I said no. The sales guy then took me through the spin of saying that I needed my transmission serviced, radiator flushed, fuel lines flushed, battery terminals cleaned, a bottle of oil additives to "extend" the life of the oil and last but not least a bottle of gas additives to clean my fuel system.
I said no to everything, but had I said yes then my bill would have come to over 0. I couldn’t make this stuff up if I tried folks. On top of all that, they charged me for premium oil instead of the regular oil I usually have them use for . They didn’t even ask. With that said, what exactly do you guys do for preventative maintenance? BTW, the right headlight suddenly worked again as soon as I drove away.
I started doing my own oil changes recently, and one of the problems that i ran into is choosing the right oil filter. I live in a very small town, and the local hardware store only stocks 4 filter brands: FRAM, Motorcraft, Quaker State and Mobil 1. So far i’ve been using Mobil 1 since that’s what the salesman at the store advised me to do, but at per filter its a bit expensive.
I’ve done some research on the Internet and now i’m even more confused. Some say FRAM/Quaker State are the best filters if you change your oil every 3000 miles (that’s what i do), others say they can cause engine damage even if changed frequently. Most people say Mobil 1 is the best but there are sites that say they’re an overpriced scam because they have an even smaller filtering area then a Fram filter? And there doesn’t seem to be any info about Motorcraft filters at all…
Which of these 4 should i use?
I have about 8 gallons of used motor oil in my garage.(from oil changes)
Does it really work as a natural lawn fertilizer?
I saw it on the tv show sharktank. There was some Llama farmer who poured used motor oil on a dead tree and it came back to life.
Know the Right Oil for Your Engine?
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